For Concrete, Asphalt & Masonry Recycling bins we offer clients the choice of:

  • 5 Cubic Yard concrete waste Dumpster
  • 7 Cubic Yard cement waste Dumpster
  • 10 Cubic Yard asphalt waste Dumpster
  • 12 Cubic Yard concrete waste containers

We offer 5 yard, 7 yard, 10, 12 yard dumpsters for concrete projects and even have fixed pricing so that you know your full cost ahead of time.

If you have concrete, you typically rent a bin that only has concrete or similar products in it like asphalt, gravel or cement.

We take all the materials to a recycling facility and although we pay the recycling company to drop these off, its still recycled and turned into other masonry project.

If you have red bricks, bricks and other masonry projects, ask your concrete bin rental specialist about whether the materials can be mixed. Sometimes they can, and sometimes not, just depends on the recycling facility regulation.

Our customers typically find concrete under the deck and attached to fence posts used to hold the fence or deck in place. Or on a patio, to separate the lawn and patio and provide a place to put chairs or a barbecue. They also find concrete on driveways and pathways. Typically, you need to use a jack hammer which can be rented at a tool rental shop for a reasonable cost and then jack hammer the area to break pieces into sizes that are manageable to carry into the disposal bin. Call us to find out what dimensions of concrete we accept in our concrete recycling bins.

Concrete is a solid material that is used in construction as a foundation material. It is essentially a liquid stone product that is carried on trucks that keep the concrete moving while driving so that it doesn’t harden and can off-loaded onto customer sites. Concrete is really just a bunch of materials that is mixed together with water and cement. It acts a jello at this stage and can be poured into molds and create any shape. Once the concrete is hardened it is very effective, as it holds its shape and strength with out much upkeep.

DIY Concreting Tips

Read on to find out some steps that may aid you with your own concrete garage floor, path as well as driveway.
Measure and Order how much is needed
Work out the amount of concrete that is needed. Concrete tends to be measured as well as brought in cubic metres. Look at the below steps to figure out how much concrete may be needed, in volume.
1. Figure out the Area
Area within square metres = to the Length (m) x the Width (m).
Figure out what Thickness
It is possible that this may depend upon your excavation.
Figure out the Volume
You may want to add a bit more for wastage along with variations in depth.
Volume within cubic metres is = Area within m2 x thickness / 1,000
2. What Tools are Required for Concreting?
For those who do not have all the required tools, you may want to hire tools that are needed for laying concrete. These may be gotten from some plate hire organizations. You may want to ask some neighbors along with friends to aid you out if you want to. You can ask 6 people for instance, i.e. 2 on barrows then 2 spreaders plus 2 screeders.
Tools
• Timber for pegs plus formwork.
• Builder’s barrows having inflated rubber tyres.
• It has been claimed that small garden barrows that have metal wheels are such that they are not good to be used for this work. You need to figure out how many barrows you will require according to the quantity precisely of concrete along with the distance that you need to move it.
• Timber planks or ramp so as to wheel the particular barrow over when the situation arises of the ground being uneven or even soft.
• You will need one or maybe two square-mouthed type of shovels.
• A good screed board – a heavy and smooth board around 900mm wider in comparison to the formwork.
• A wooden float or flat wood piece that has a handle so as to finish the surface
• You may need a steel trowel or you may not need one.
• An edging tool that will be needed to make cross-joints along with edging.
• A grooving tool that is 15mm that will be needed for long sections particularly of concreting like driveways plus long paths.
• Garden rake
• Mallet or maybe heavy hammer
• Sufficient waterproof building paper, sand, plastic sheeting or maybe hessian so as to cover those areas that need to be concreted.
• A spirit level
3. Get the Ground Ready
You can hammer wooden pegs within the ground so as to mark out the place you wish to concrete.
Employ wooden pegs around 25mm square as well as long enough so as to be rigid at the time that they are driven within the ground.
You can stretch a string that is strong or twine among the pegs.
Then cut pegs off specifically at length of the timber.
Figure out how high you wish the concrete to be in comparison to the ground that is around it.
Get rid of turf or even loose soil present from the area that you have marked out.
For those who feel that the ground tends to be soft you may try spreading sand or maybe ashes so as to make a base that is better.
You may want to fill holes and uneven ground with clean fill, stones or maybe broken bricks. (It has been claimed that final levelling tends to be best done with the aid of sand after one has put in the precise formwork).
At the time that the full area is flat you can compact it via rolling, walking or maybe driving over it along with hosing lightly. It has been said that the further it settles, the more better your foundation for your concrete.
4. Cut as well as Place Formwork
You may be wondering what actually is “Formwork”? Your question is answered. Formwork claims to be the walls which support the concrete precisely until its set. It has been said that it actually forms a mould. You can employ timber for formwork. It can be a minimum of 25mm thick moreover equal within width to your concrete thickness.
Formwork precisely for Concrete Paths
• Employ structural plywood or you can use hardboard.
• Curved paths may need hardboard or you can use 7mm plywood, but needs more supporting pegs.
• Forms needs to be strong, they should be smooth upon the top edge moreover well supported with good stout pegs. You can see the strength of your formwork by seeing how it handles a reasonable kick.
• It has been claimed that formwork should be deep enough so as to hold the precise thickness of concrete put moreover to stop slurry from escaping underneath.
What about Plywood Formwork?
Plywood formwork that is from ones local building supply plus timber yard claims to be simple to cut to shape moreover can be actually reused for more than one job.
Put the forms along your borders that are marked out with the string.
You can try to secure forms into the position you want with the aid of stout pegs driven within the ground inside as well as outside the forms.
It has been claimed that the outside pegs need to be put at intervals that are more frequent moreover the forms precisely nailed to them.
You can then hammer your pegs down so that they are below the height precisely of the forms.
You may want to coat your formwork lightly by using thin oil or maybe form oil that can be simply removed later on.
Soak the ground as well as forms properly with water. This can be done the night preceding the pour.
Once again dampen preceding the arrival of the Boral Concrete truck. Make sure the ground is damp, it should not be muddy.
Put reinforcements (check if needed)
Places like garage floors need reinforcing which can be done with mesh or something similar. Some local building regulations can actually sometimes demand the employment of reinforcement.
If you want information concerned with what kinds of mesh to employ moreover how to cut plus place it, you can contact a steel fabric mesh supplier.
See your measurements
When you have succeeded in getting your formwork sorted out along with the completion of some other preparations, you can then have one final check upon how much concrete you need.
5. Putting the Concrete
The way that concrete is delivered
You need to see if the area that you wish the concrete to be delivered tends to be level moreover the way tends to be clear for the particular truck to properly drive in or maybe reach over the precise area specifically with its chute, if this is so then it has been claimed that Boral trucks can actually discharge your concrete directly into the formwork that you have.
Sloping ground
If the ground tends to be sloping then tell the driver to initiate pouring mounts of the concrete at the point that is lowest and working up the slope.
Area with limited access
For those whose site cannot actually be reached via truck they can tell the driver to put the concrete within a wheelbarrow. You can make your helpers be ready with barrows at the time that the truck reaches.
Load the barrows and then wheel them over to your concreted area. Tip the concrete particularly into the formwork.
Try having a simple spreading type of job. You can place the mounds in a way so that they can actually be evened out. You may notice that it is simpler to move concrete upon wheels initially in comparison to moving it at a later time by shovels. If the site is a sloping one then tip your barrows up the slope. You should not initiate at the top.
If you have some teamwork available, it may be able to let you place the concrete in a quick way if you need to barrow it to your forms. You can have 1 or maybe 2 individuals who may wheel as well as tip the concrete and the other can spread it.
Be alert of how much time the truck driver gives you to unload the concrete. Be ready to start as soon as the truck reaches.
As your form fills precisely with concrete (a bit higher in comparison to formwork so as to let setting occur), get rid of the inside pegs.
Employ shovels so as to spread your concrete in an even way over the ground.
You can work your shovel up as well as down within the concrete just within your formwork so as to try and get a better finish particularly at the edges.
You may want to compact your concrete by properly working your shovel through it so as to get rid of air bubbles.
Make sure that the concrete has actually filled properly right to the precise corners along with sides of the formwork.
Push your shovel down directly within the concrete particularly at spaces of precisely 80 to 100mm specifically in rows along the job.
6. Smoothing the Concrete
Screeding
You can screed your concrete so as to form a concrete surface that is smooth.
When filling the form you can take your screed board. There can be one person present at each end.
You may want to rest the ends of your screed board upon the formwork.
You can move the screed board in a way that is back and forth particularly across the concrete’s surface, you can edge along specifically from one end precisely of your form to the other. It has been claimed that this can smooth along with compact concrete in a way that is right up specifically to the form.
If there is much concrete which has formed up in front precisely of your board, you can move it along using a shovel.
It may be so that water appears upon the surface of the concrete proceeding the screeding procedure. Do not worry as this is claimed to be normal. Some water can run off or even evaporate. The remaining will actually be drawn back within the concrete at the time that the “setting process” starts.
7. Completing the Surface
Employing a “wood float”
For those who wish to get a smoother finish in comparison to the screeded surface, employ a wood float. It has been said that “floating” tends to agitate the surface, it also compacts the material moreover brings sufficient amounts of mortar precisely to the surface so as to fill voids.
Utilize the float particularly with light pressure – make it be titled in a slight way upwards particularly into the direction that you tend to be pushing it.
Proceeding floating, you can round off your edges using an edging tool.
Textured finish
For a precise rough texture – employ a wood float so as to swirl your concrete. You may draw a broom or maybe brush over the particular surface.
You may want to employ a steel trowel type of finish upon garage floors, nevertheless the surface will tend to become slippery at the time that it is wet. This is not suggested for external driveways as well as patios, etc.
Smooth finish
If you want a finish that is really smooth you can employ a steel trowel proceeding the concrete becoming quite stiff.
Remember to not put excess water and fine material particularly to the surface.
Initiate trowelling immediately when the “shiny water sheen” goes away, but while the concrete still appears damp.
You can do final edging at this time.
When your concrete tends to be nearly hard you can do the final hard troweling activity.
Concreting when the weather is cold
The time between the screeding as well as finishing process actually varies within summer along with winter.
REMEMBER THIS:
Never try to trowel concrete when water is lying upon the surface. It has been said that this will allow your surface to become weak, moreover powdering or even dusting likely to happen.
When concrete tends to be put in sections more than 3 metres long, i.e. driveway or for a long path, you should make evenly divided grooves across your concrete surface by using the grooving tool.
Remember that the distance among grooves must be littler than 3 metres. It has been claimed that grooves aid in preventing your concrete cracking.
Employ flat side of your screed board like a support as well as guide at the time that you are making grooves.
8. Cure Concrete
Cure your Concrete
It has been said that concrete develops its might at the time that the water reacts particularly with the cement.
Do not let concrete dry out very quickly or else a weak and poor quality type of surface may form.
Immediately when the surface tends to be hard enough so as to resist marking, you can cover the concrete using plastic sheeting or maybe waterproof building paper. Secure properly, particularly on the edges. It has been claimed that this will aid in letting the moisture stay in.
You can also spread a layer specifically of hessian or maybe sand over your surface. Keep moistening this continuously. This is another method.
This procedure of making your concrete stay damp is called “curing”. The concrete will keep on increasing in strength for a minimum of one month if curing tends to be continued for that particular time.
Get rid of the Formwork
At the time that the concrete tends to have sufficient strength to be able to handle cars and pedestrians, often succeeding 7 days of the curing, you can then strip your forms away.
You should not utilize metal tools so as to pry off your forms as they may produce damage.
For those who have employed form oil, your forms will be simpler to remove moreover utilize again for other projects.
Love Your Work
The work has been completed, admire it.